Ford Ranger PX2 / PX3 / Everest Headlight Install Guide
Fits the Ranger PX2, PX3 (XL to Wildtrak, not Raptor) and the 2015–2022 Everest. The grille comes off, the bumper eases forward, and the new headlights plug into the factory plugs with the supplied harness. PX2 adds one DRL wire. Allow about an hour, plus time to aim them.
The steps below then show only what applies to yours.
Before you start. Engine off, key out, lights off. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (and any second battery).
Do one side at a time, so the other side shows you how it all goes back.
Tools
10 mm and 8 mm sockets, extension and ratchet
Torx bit set
Plastic trim tool and flat screwdriver
Masking tape, marker and tape measure
Test light and a fuse tap (for the DRL wire)
Install
1
Mark the beam height
1
Park on flat ground with the headlights 5 m from a flat wall (measure from the lens). Measure from the ground to the centre of each headlight and put a strip of tape on the wall at that height, in line with each light. You'll aim the new lights to these marks.
2
Remove the grille and ease the bumper forward
1
Open the bonnet. Pull the push clips holding the plastic cover along the top of the radiator support and lift the cover off.
2
Grille: undo the 4 × 10 mm bolts (2 along the top, 2 lower down), then pull the grille forward to release its clips. Work around it evenly; there are a lot of clips and they let go one by one.
3
Bumper: pull the 4 push pins along the top of the bumper. In each wheel arch, undo the 8 mm bolt behind the liner. Underneath, undo the 4 × 10 mm bolts. Ease the bumper forward a little; you only need room to reach the headlight's lower bolt.
3
Remove the factory headlights
1
Undo the headlight: 2 × 10 mm bolts on top, 1 push pin on top, 1 Torx screw on the side and 1 × 10 mm bolt underneath.
2
Ease the headlight forward and unplug every plug behind it (press each tab).
3
Keep these: twist the H11 bulb out of each old projector headlight. It goes into the new one. If your factory headlights are the reflector type (no projector lens), your bulbs won't suit: message us.
4
Connect the new headlight
1
Fit the H11 LED projector bulbs from the kit into the new headlights: twist each in until it locks. Don't touch the LED chips.
2
Fit your factory H11 bulb into the new headlight. Don't touch the glass; skin oil makes it fail early.
3
The H11 is the only bulb the new headlight takes. Low and high beam are both built in, so there's no separate high-beam bulb to fit.
4
Plug the supplied harness into your factory headlight plugs, then into the new headlight. Each plug only fits one way; push them in until they click. CanBUS is built in, so there's no coding.
5
DRL wire: the DRL is one extra wire. Pick where it gets power: an ignition-switched 12 V source (DRL on whenever the engine runs) or the park light positive wire (DRL on with the parkers). For ignition power, a fuse tap on an ignition-only accessory fuse in the cabin fuse box is the easiest way. Use the test light to find a fuse that's live only with the ignition on. Never tap an airbag, engine, ECU or ABS fuse.
6
PX3 and Everest: there's no DRL wire. The DRL runs through the factory plug.
5
Test, then bolt in
1
Reconnect the battery. Check low beam, high beam, park lights, both indicators and the hazards. The indicators should flash at the normal speed.
2
Check the DRLs come on, and that the indicators sweep outward on both sides.
3
Battery off again. Bolt the headlight in: 2 bolts and the push pin on top, the Torx screw on the side and the bolt underneath. Cable tie any loose wiring away from the radiator, fan and anything hot or moving.
4
Do the other side the same way. Refit the bumper bolts and pins, the grille and the top cover, then reconnect the battery.
6
Aim the headlights
1
Park in the same spot you marked the wall from. Tyres at normal pressure, nothing heavy in the tray or back.
2
Low beams on. Hold a piece of cardboard in front of one headlight while you aim the other.
3
Set the top edge of the low beam (the cut-off) 7.5 to 10 cm below your tape mark, pointing straight ahead. Use the adjuster screws on the back or top of the headlight.
4
Check both at night on a quiet road. Oncoming drivers shouldn't flash you.
Troubleshooting
One headlight doesn't work
Check every plug is fully clicked in at the headlight, and the harness is pushed fully home.
Indicators flash too fast
CanBUS decoders are built in, so this shouldn't happen. Check every indicator plug is fully clicked in, then message us.
Dash warning light
Check every plug is fully home and the bulbs are seated and locked. If the light stays on, message us with a photo of the dash.
Low beam is dim or patchy
Use H11 bulbs suited to projector headlights. LED bulbs made for reflector headlights give a poor beam.
DRL stays on with the engine off
It's on a constant 12 V fuse. Move it to a fuse that's live only with the ignition on.
DRL doesn't come on
Check the fuse tap's fuse and the join, and that the source is live when it should be.
Light fogs up inside
A little condensation after a cold night is normal and clears once the lights have run. If it doesn't clear, or there's water inside, message us.
Beam looks too high or too low
Re-aim it with the vehicle level and unloaded.
The beam is set for right-hand drive. Rules for aftermarket headlights vary by state. Check yours before fitting to a registered vehicle.
Need a hand?
Message us with your vehicle, build date and a photo of the problem.
Free shipping over $200 on most items. Most headlights ship tracked at a flat rate: $69 to NSW, VIC, QLD & ACT, $149 to SA, WA, NT & TAS. Exact shipping shows at checkout.
