13" head unit for Toyota LandCruiser 76, 78 and 79 Series, 2009–2026. Allow about an hour, plus an hour if you're fitting our camera.
Before you start. Disconnect the negative terminal on every battery, including a second battery if you have one. Tuck the terminal away so it can't spring back onto the post. Wait at least 3 minutes before working near the A-pillar or dash trims; there are airbags behind them.
Take a photo of each plug before you unplug it.
Test everything in part 7 before you clip the new unit in. It's far easier to fix a plug now than to pull the fascia out again.
Which dash do you have?
Pre-facelift
2009 to Aug 2023
Factory radio with knobs. No factory steering wheel buttons. The factory clock isn't kept; the new unit shows the time.
Facelift
Sep 2023 onwards
Factory touchscreen with steering wheel buttons. The factory 28-pin button plug connects to the new unit; you pair the buttons in setup. Some have a factory reverse camera.
Not sure? The build date is on your compliance plate and registration papers, or message us.
What's in the box
13" screen with fascia (the SIM tray is on the unit)
New hazard switch for the lower dash panel
Plug-and-play wiring loom
Audio output lead (front, rear and sub, for amplifiers)
GPS antenna
External microphone
4G antenna
External WiFi and Bluetooth antennas
2 × USB leads
Reverse camera and OBD reader, if you ordered them
Tools
Plastic trim removal tools
10 mm socket with extension (pre-facelift)
Electrical tape and cable ties
An old towel to rest the unit on while you test
Camera only: multimeter, wire strippers, crimper, insulated butt connectors, adhesive-lined heat shrink and a heat gun, a 2 A inline fuse holder, a ring terminal
Micro SIM card (optional, for 4G)
How it all connects
Everything plugs into the back of the new unit. The only wiring you join yourself is the camera's power and trigger at the rear.
Grey: optional. Every plug is labelled.
Install
1
Remove the factory unit
1
Note your radio presets. Check every battery is disconnected (see Before you start).
2
Starting at a bottom corner, work the trim tools around the centre fascia and pop it off its clips. Pull it straight towards you, slowly; there are plugs behind it.
3
Unplug every connector on the back of the fascia, including the hazard switch. Keep the hazard plug; it goes to the new switch in part 2. Tape over any plug that isn't reused and tuck it away so it can't rattle.
4
Pre-faceliftUndo the four 10 mm bolts at the corners of the factory radio.
5
FaceliftThere are no bolts. The factory screen is held by strong clips: pull firmly and evenly, a little at a time on each side.
6
Ease the radio out and unplug everything behind it. Facelift: tape over the factory USB and camera plugs and tuck them away, unless you're keeping a factory camera.
2
Fit the new hazard switch
The factory hazard switch isn't reused. The new one in the box goes in the lower dash switch panel.
1
Unclip the lower dash switch panel with the trim tools.
2
Clip the new hazard switch into a blank switch position in the panel. Keep another blank free if you want to mount a USB lead there. No blank position free? Message us.
3
Feed the hazard plug you kept in part 1 down behind the dash to the lower panel, and click it into the new switch. Clip the panel back in.
3
Connect the wiring loom
1
Plug the loom into your factory radio plugs. Each plug only fits its matching socket, so nothing needs cutting.
2
Plug the factory antenna lead into the loom's antenna socket.
3
Steering wheel buttons. The unit takes a standard Toyota 28-pin button plug. FaceliftPlug the factory 28-pin button plug into the unit's 28-pin socket. Pre-faceliftFitting our steering wheel with the wiring kit? The kit's yellow, red and black wires come with pins already crimped on: push them into the kit's 28-pin plug (yellow 21, red 22, black 23) until each clicks, then plug it into the same socket. Full wheel install: steering wheel install guide. You pair the buttons in part 9.
Wiring kit only. 28-pin plug viewed from the wire side; count from the small numbers moulded on the plug. 21 yellow: seek and volume. 22 red: mode, voice, phone. 23 black: button ground.
4
Running an amplifier? Connect the audio output lead to it, and connect the amp's remote (REM) input to the unit's amp turn-on wire so the amp switches on and off with the unit. No amplifier: tape the lead's ends and tuck it away.
5
Plug the loom into the back of the new unit.
4
Antennas, microphone and USB
Simplified view from the driver's seat. Numbers match the steps below.
1 GPS antenna: dash top, near the windscreen
2 Microphone: top of the steering column, aimed at the driver
3 4G antenna: dash top, centre, off any airbag cover
4 WiFi / Bluetooth antennas: optional, tucked behind the dash
5 USB leads: glovebox or a blank switch position
H Hazard switch: lower switch panel (part 2)
OBD reader: under the dash, driver's side (part 6)
1
GPS antenna: stick it on top of the dash near the windscreen, flat sticky side down, clear of metal and metallic window tint. Feed the cable down the gap at the front of the dash to the back of the unit.
2
Microphone: clip it to the top of the steering column cover, or the top of the instrument cluster hood, aimed at the driver. Tuck the cable into the gap between the column cover and the dash and run it to the back of the unit. Never run it along the A-pillar or the roof edge, and never push it into a trim gap there: that's where the airbags come out.
3
4G antenna: top of the dash, centre, clear of metal. Never on an airbag cover. Insert a micro SIM into the unit's SIM tray now if you're using one.
4
WiFi and Bluetooth antennas: optional, for longer range at camp. Most setups don't need them.
5
USB leads: route them to the glovebox or a blank switch position, wherever you want to plug your phone in.
6
Plug the antennas, microphone and USB leads into the back of the new unit. Each plug is labelled. The microphone's small round plug goes only in the socket marked MIC: it also fits other round sockets, so check the label.
5
Reverse camera
If ordered
No camera: skip to part 6. Keeping a factory camera: some vehicles need a Toyota camera retention harness. We don't sell it, so message us your build date and we'll tell you which one.
Our AHD 1080P camera. Allow an extra hour.
1
Mount the camera. Wagon or Troopy: top of the rear door, above the number plate. Ute: rear of the tray or tub, or the headboard. Canopy: top of the canopy rear door. Aim it so the rear bumper or tow ball just shows at the bottom of the picture.
2
Run the video lead to the dash. Lift the sill trims and the driver's kick panel off their clips with the trim tools. Wagon or Troopy: through the rubber boot on the rear door's hinge side, up the rear pillar, under the sill trims and behind the kick panel. Ute: along the chassis rail beside the factory wiring, into the cab through an existing rubber grommet in the floor or rear wall, then under the sill trim and up the kick panel. Leave a loop of slack where the lead crosses from tray to chassis.
3
Keep the lead at least 150 mm from the exhaust, and clear of the suspension and anything that moves. Never tie it to brake or fuel lines. Cable tie it every 30 cm or so.
4
Find the reverse light wire. Reconnect the battery for this test only. Ignition on, engine off, park brake on, foot on the brake if it's an automatic, reverse selected. Set the multimeter to DC volts, black probe on bare chassis metal. At the tail light plug, probe into the back of each wire (don't pierce it) and find the one that reads 12 V only in reverse. Mark it, then disconnect every battery again.
5
Join the camera's red wire and the red trigger wire to that reverse wire, with a 2 A inline fuse in the trigger wire right at the join. Use crimped butt connectors, or solder, then seal with adhesive-lined heat shrink. No tape-only joins and no clip-on taps.
6
Crimp a ring terminal onto the camera's black wire and bolt it to a bare-metal body bolt. Never use a seatbelt or airbag bolt. Camera on a rear door: ground it to the door itself, not through the hinges. Ute: a bare-metal tray or chassis bolt.
7
At the dash, plug the yellow video plug into the unit's camera input, and connect the red trigger wire to the unit's reverse lead.
6
OBD reader
If ordered
No OBD reader: skip to part 7.
1
Find the diagnostic port under the dash on the driver's side. It's a 16-pin socket facing down.
2
Push the reader in firmly, clear of your feet and the pedals.
3
You'll pair it with the unit in part 9.
7
Test before you fit it
Rest the unit on a towel. Do part 9, steps 1 to 6 now (date, WiFi, phone, SIM, GPS, steering wheel buttons), then work through every check.
1
Reconnect every battery. Ignition ON (not just accessories): the unit should start up within about 30 seconds.
2
Sound from every speaker, then radio reception.
3
Indicators both ways, and the hazard lights from the new switch.
4
Plug a phone into each USB lead and check it charges.
5
Camera: engine off, park brake on, foot on the brake if automatic, select reverse. The picture should appear within a few seconds, and close when you come out of reverse. Blank screen: set the camera type to AHD 1080P (part 9, step 7).
6
Make a test call and check the other person hears you clearly.
7
Press every steering wheel button, and check a maps app shows your position.
8
Take the key out. The screen should go dark and the sound stop. Turn it back on: your settings and stations should still be there.
8
Fit the new unit
1
Tuck the loom and leads into the cavity so nothing gets pinched behind the unit.
2
Push the unit in bottom edge first, then press firmly around the fascia until every clip seats. It clips in; there are no bolts.
3
Refit the sill trims and kick panel if you lifted them for the camera.
9
First setup
1
Set the date, time and time zone first. Google sign-in and GPS both fail if the date is wrong.
2
Connect to WiFi (your phone's hotspot works) and sign in to Google Play to download apps.
3
CarPlay or Android Auto: pair your phone over Bluetooth, then accept the prompt on your phone. After the first connection it starts by itself.
4
4G SIM: use a data-only micro SIM from Telstra, Optus or Vodafone. If it doesn't get data, enter your carrier's APN (the internet settings it gives you) in the mobile network settings.
5
GPS: open a maps app outside and check it shows your position.
6
Steering wheel buttons: open the steering wheel settings on the unit. Press a function on screen, then press the matching button on the wheel. Repeat for each button, then save. Our steering wheels with the wiring kit pair the same way.
7
Camera: in the unit's camera settings, set the camera type to AHD 1080P. Turn on mirror image if left and right look swapped, and switch the parking guidelines on or off to suit.
8
OBD reader: ignition on. Open the unit's Bluetooth settings, scan, and pair with the reader. It shows as OBDII, OBD2 or V-LINK; the PIN is 1234, or 0000 if that fails. Once it says Paired, leave it there; the app makes the connection.
9
Install an OBD app from Google Play, such as Torque or Car Scanner. In the app's settings, choose Bluetooth as the connection and select the reader. Close and reopen the app.
10
The app shows fault codes and live engine data like coolant temperature, intake temperature, RPM, speed, battery voltage and boost where your engine reports it.
OBD reader tips. Parking for more than a few days? Unplug the reader so it can't drain the battery.
Reading fault codes is safe. Only clear a code after the fault behind it is fixed; clearing it doesn't fix anything.
Troubleshooting
Unit doesn't turn on
Check every battery is reconnected and every loom plug is fully clicked in at both ends, then check the radio fuses.
Settings or radio stations lost every time you turn off
The unit isn't getting constant power. Check the loom's power plug is fully seated, then message us.
Battery goes flat overnight
Take the key out and check the screen goes dark and the sound stops. Unplug the OBD reader if you have one. Still going flat: message us before driving far.
Hazard lights don't work
Check the hazard plug is fully clicked into the new switch in the lower panel. Fix this before driving.
No sound
Check volume and mute, then the speaker plugs in the loom. Running an amplifier: check the audio output lead, the amp's power, and that the amp turn-on wire is connected.
Poor or no radio reception
Check the factory antenna lead is pushed fully into the loom's antenna socket.
GPS won't find your position
Check the date and time zone, then make sure the GPS antenna is on top of the dash with a clear view of the sky. Turn on high-accuracy location in settings.
Camera shows a black or blue screen, or "no signal"
Set the camera type to AHD 1080P in the camera settings. Still blank: check the yellow plug is in the camera input, the 2 A fuse is intact, there's 12 V at the camera's red wire in reverse, and the black wire is on bare metal.
Screen doesn't switch to the camera in reverse
The trigger isn't reaching the unit. Check the 2 A fuse, the trigger join at the rear, and that the trigger wire is connected to the unit's reverse lead.
Camera shows all the time
The trigger wire is on a constant 12 V feed. Move it to the wire that's live only in reverse.
Camera picture flickers or has lines
Usually a poor ground: move the black wire to a clean, bare-metal body bolt. Also check the video lead isn't running alongside engine wiring.
Picture is mirrored or guidelines are wrong
Change the mirror and guideline options in the camera settings (part 9, step 7).
Callers can't hear you
Check the microphone is plugged into the mic socket and aimed at the driver, away from vents.
OBD app won't connect
Ignition on. Unplug the reader, plug it back in, then close and reopen the app. Still nothing: forget the reader in Bluetooth settings and pair it again.
Steering wheel buttons don't work
Pair them in the unit's steering wheel settings (part 9, step 6). Still dead: reseat the 28-pin plug in the unit. Pre-facelift: there are no factory buttons, but our steering wheels add them.
Screen too bright at night
Turn on automatic dimming in the display settings, or set a night brightness level.
CarPlay or Android Auto keeps dropping out
Forget the unit on your phone and pair it again. If it keeps dropping, connect once with a good-quality USB cable, then go back to wireless.
Need a hand?
Message us with your build date, which dash you have, and a photo of the problem.
